Marking out a site
After coming up with the design on paper next it needs to be translated onto the field itself. Having fixed points easily located on both map and ground to use a reference points really helps. Luckily out design was based on measurements running parallel along existing fence lines so making the measurements would fairly straight forward. A combination of plastic ties along the fence and spray painted sticks where used to mark out where the tree rows where going to go.
Ground preparation
Walnut trees form taproots that like to go straight down and prefer not to be impeded in their efforts by a solid plough pan or layer of compaction. As the field had been previously cultivated it was deemed a good idea to subsoil the alleys where the trees would be planted to break up any plough pan that might be there. A specialist grassland subsoiler was used which dragged three tines through the ground with a roller attachment to avoid disturbing the grass above too much. It was decided to subsoil across the field and up/down field to mark out location of each tree by creating a grid structure.


Ready for planting








Using a mycorrhizal fungi inoculant
We decided to try using a mycorrhizal inoculant when planting. The brand we used was ‘Rootgrow professional’. Mycorrhiza Rootgrow can be used as a dry granule or a root dipping gel for bare root plants. Rootgrow contains a mixture of species of UK origin mycorrhizal fungi with an inert clay carrier which acts as a substrate for the fungi to grow through and bio-additives which enhance mycorrhizal colonisation. We used it as a dipping gel-the appearance of the solution when mixed was similar to wallpaper paste. The mixed gel dip should be used within 2 days for full effect. Mycorrhiza fungi can help the trees establish quickly and hopefully reduce resilience in the first year from drought and other stressors.


I was given advice to use 1.5m x 75mm diameter posts. It was suggested that the 50mm post would be too light to hold the trees much beyond the first year and it will probably take 3 years for the trees to become securely anchored. The site is very exposed so worth staking well. Stakes went in upright to offer greater support on the exposed slope and where bashed as far in as possible using a fencing maul.
Using 75mm diameter posts requires longer tree ties: 60cm (50mm width) with 75mm diameter posts. I used the ‘Supersoft heavy duty ties’ on the recommendation they are almost indestructible. I tied the trees as securely and as high as possible- to avoid any rubbing damaging. This will mean that tree ties will need to be checked through the season to ensure they don’t become too tight.


